Doug Scott: Tributes paid to Everest mountaineer after death aged 79

Mr Scott was part of the famous 18-strong team who set out to climb Everest's dangerous south-west face.

Doug scott
Image: Doug Scott passed away at home on Monday
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Mountaineer Doug Scott, who climbed one of Everest's toughest sections, has died aged 79.

Tributes have been paid to the intrepid climber, who wrote his name into the record books by being the first adventurer, along with Douglas Haston, to climb Mount Everest's south-west face rather than the "tourist friendly" route.

Mr Scott was part of the famous 18-strong team who set out to complete the challenge, considered one of mountaineering's most difficult because of its length and exposure to high-level winds.

Doug Scott and Hamish MacInnes in an icefall on Mount Everest
Image: Doug Scott and Hamish MacInnes in an icefall on Mount Everest

However, tragedy struck the expedition when fellow climber Mick Burke disappeared four days later on his way to the summit.

Two years after that, Mr Scott broke both legs while abseiling from the peak of The Ogre, a relatively uncharted peak in the Himalayas, and effectively crawled to base camp supported by two teammates. He was made a CBE in 1994.

Mr Scott, who had cancer, passed away at his home in the Lake District on Monday.

He founded the Community Action Nepal (CAN) charity to help people in the Himalayas and raised money for Nepal during the first national lockdown by climbing up and down his stairs.

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In a statement, the CAN said: "It is with a very heavy heart that we inform you that our founder, leader and great friend, Mr Doug Scott, passed away peacefully... at his home with his family around him.

"Doug's family has asked for privacy at this time but will be making a full and proper announcement in the coming days.

"We thank you all for your care and support."

The 1975 British Mount Everest Southwest Face expedition, including Nick Estcourt, Chris Bonington, Dougal Haston, Hamish MacInnes, Doug Scott, Peter Boardman, at an airport, UK, 29th July 1975. (Photo by Evening Standard/Hulton Archive/Getty Images)
Image: The 1975 British Mount Everest Southwest Face expedition team including Nick Estcourt, Chris Bonington, Dougal Haston, Hamish MacInnes, Doug Scott and Peter Boardman

Adventurer Alastair Humphreys said: "I'm sorry to hear that mountaineer Doug Scott has died. A life filled with adventure and purpose."

Mountaineer Kenton Cool added: "Possibly the greatest mountaineer of his generation."

17th October 1975: British Mountaineer Chris Bonington and other members of the successful 1975 expedition to climb the South West Face of Everest, at Heathrow Airport. Left to right: Peter Boardman; Chris Bonington, a sherpa, Dougal Haston (1940 - 1977), Doug Scott and his wife Jan. (Photo by Keystone/Getty Images)
Image: Doug Scott and other members of the successful 1975 expedition. Left to right: Peter Boardman; Chris Bonington, a sherpa, Dougal Haston

A statement on behalf of the British Embassy in Mr Scott's beloved Nepal said: "We remember Doug Scott CBE not only for his mountaineering feats but as a true friend of Nepal whose support helped build health posts in rural villages.

"His feats also remind us of the importance of protecting our mountains from climate change."

17th October 1975: Doug Scott, a member of the British team which scaled Mount Everest, on his arrival at Heathrow Airport with his family. (Photo by Keystone/Getty Images)
Image: Mr Scott with his family on his arrival at Heathrow Airport after the Everest expedition

Mr Scott conquered the so-called Seven Summits, the highest peaks on each continent.

Recalling his 1977 Ogre odyssey and the team who helped him crawl back to safety, Mr Scott said: "On the mountain I was just 100% right there, just getting across that next bit.

British mountaineer Doug Scott attends a book signing for The Conquest of Everest book in London on May 29, 2013, on the 60th anniversary of Tenzing and Hillary's accent in 1953. AFP PHOTO / ANDREW COWIE
Image: Mr Scott set up a charity to help people in the Himalayas

"I didn't do it one day at a time, even. Just one nub or rock, pick another objective, get to that.

"A conjuring trick happened and they (the teammates) disappeared from the plot. Without those two I would not have got off the mountain."