An insider's guide to Turin, Italy's most tasteful city-break destination right now

The beauty of Turin is that it’s all about the niche. Yes, there are grand boulevards, ancient ruins, grand coffee shops festooned with chandeliers, world-leading museums and household brands that pierce Italy’s borders (hello Fiat and Lavazza) but look beyond the obvious and you’ll quickly realise there’s no other city in Italy quite like it.

At first glance, Piedmont’s capital looks more like a romanticised ode to Paris. Explore the ultra-moody streets, however, and you’ll get an authentic dose of Italy. Extraordinary royal palazzi, avant-garde galleries, bookstores, chiselled gardens, and miles upon miles of baroque architectural masterpieces – and then there are the restaurants. Slow food and top-notch wines are the real deal and every decent restaurant in the city is consistently booked up. In short, there’s not one palazzo, courtyard, street, shop, or institution left untouched by this city’s infectious drive for its epicurean, historic and deeply artistic personality.

It might not have the grand hotels of Rome, the stylish finesse of Milan, or the Renaissance splendour of Florence, but it has plenty of soul. There’s a charm to this city’s grit. It feels lived in, loved, respected… It's a picture of real Italian life, Disney-fied Amalfi-mania aside. What you see is what you get. Here are the best things to do, from eats to museums and the buzzing galleries in between.

The best hotels in Turin

Grand Hotel Sitea

The city’s grand dame hotel is its most storied. Opened in 1925, it remains Turin’s only historic grand hotel and is a member of the Locali Storici d’Italia, an age-old institution that brings all of Italy’s most esteemed hotels, restaurants, and cafés together. Despite being hidden away on a quiet pedestrianised road, the hotel is plonked in the centre of all the action. The Via Roma (home to all the big Italian fashion houses), the bustling Piazza San Carlo, Museo Egizio and all the big royal palaces are all within easy walking distance. Think grand coffered ceilings, Art Deco chandeliers, 16th-century pastoral paintings and a charming patio running riot with tortoises. Rooms are classically designed and are generously spacious for the area with antique prints, furniture and polished parquet floors. Bathrooms? Marble-clad, of course. Elsewhere there’s a Michelin-starred restaurant plating up Piedmontese culinary traditions – if you need a drink, hit up the sexy American Bar. Though pomp through and through, it’s all very relaxed and utterly unpretentious – the staff make sure of it.

Address: Grand Hotel Sitea, Via Carlo Alberto, 35, 10123 Torino TO, Italy

NH Collection Torino Piazza Carlina 

Set inside a light and airy 20th-century palace, the movie-chic design here (think scalloped couches and starlet-ready mirrors) marries effortlessly well with the palazzo’s high baroque features: long splendid hallways, imposing arches and mosaic floors. Digs are all furnished in creams, blues and a dash of rose. The best come with views eyeing the city rooftops and all are kitted out with hardwood floors, Lavazza coffee machines (the coffee house hails from Turin) and cedar-style furniture. Up top, the rooftops dazzle with all their sprawling panoramas of grand city icons and the neighbouring Alps, plus the little herb garden loaded with home-grown rosemary, thyme and oregano is a sweet addition.

Address: Hotel NH Piazza Carlina, P.za Carlo Emanuele II, 15, 10123 Torino TO, Italy

Airbnb Turin

Turin is not known so much for its hotel scene (hence the very slim list) which is why most visitors – especially out-of-town Italians – go hyper-local and rent a place on Airbnb. Turin has caught on to the growing trend of the rental market, giving rise to a colossal number of hosts in the city who are now able to offer guests everything from insurance to nifty concierge services. Hit up any listing in Centro, especially in and around the Via Roma, Piazza Castello, Via Po, Via Giuseppe Garibaldi and the Via Pietro Micca. Expect courtyard digs with great views, delicious nearby eats and lots of free advice a lá Torinese. 

The best things to do in Turin

Museo Egizio 

The city’s Egyptian museum makes the British Museum green-eyed with jealousy. Its collection is dramatically larger; its research is globally revered, and its sheer size is dizzying. Split over four mammoth levels, the galleries were established way back in 1824 from the collection of artefacts French General Consul, Bernardino Drovetti, amassed during his travels through Egypt. The headliner comes courtesy of the Tomb of Kha, a tomb for a tomb builder to the pharaohs that dates all the way back to 3,500 BC. Elsewhere interactive displays explore all sorts of questions while other rooms chronicle remarkably well-preserved anthropomorphic sarcophagi, plus furniture, food, statues and sculptures. 

Address: Museo Egizio, Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6, 10123 Torino TO, Italy
Website: museoegizio.it 

Balon Flea Market 

If you’re a sucker for vintage steals and antiques that pack in a history lesson cue the Grand Balon, Europe’s greatest flea market. Italians far and wide have been flocking to the Porta Palazzo every second Sunday since 1985 to get their hands on all sorts of fine Italianate steals. Think retro furniture, toys, lace, linens, art, ceramics, old cameras, books and oodles of contemporary crafts. There are well over 300 stalls to peruse that spill out onto the streets – Lanino, Mameli, Canale Carpanini and Borgo Dora – and exhibitions (yes, it’s that much of a big deal) inside the Cortile del Maglio. If it all sounds a bit much, don’t worry as there are plenty of guided tours designed to whizz you through the highlights from dawn to dusk. 

Address: Via Vittorio Andreis 14, 10152 Torino 
Website: balon.it 

Palazzo Madama 

Napoleon was so enamoured by this place he took it as his official Turin residence when he annexed the city in 1802. It’s easy to see why: stained glass windows, long, cavernous hallways and perhaps one of the most breathtaking marble staircases on the planet. The original palazzo rose to the ground in 1003 but much of the beauteous Baroque façade you see today is the work of Italian architect, engraver and goldsmith Filippo Juvarra. He was the man behind some of Turin’s greatest architectural masterpieces, from the castle of Rivoli to the Palace of Venaria. Nowadays you’ll find fine mediaeval-to-modern decorative arts, porcelain, plates and religious art draped all over its walls. The café also dons excellent views over the Piazza Reale and if you head to the third floor, you’ll eye panoramic views of the city, the mountains and beyond from the sturdy tower of the ancient castle.  

Address: Palazzo Madama, P.za Castello, 10122 Torino TO, Italy
Website: palazzomadamatorino.it 

Palazzo Reale 

Next door to the Palazzo lies one of Turin’s greatest assets, its royal palace. Guarded by the statues of the mythical twins Castor and Pollux, who according to superstitious legend watch over the magical sacred and diabolical borders of the city, this is a regal, and now UNESCO-listed, retreat, originally built in the 16th century. Focus on the Galleria Sabauda to eye the personal art collection of the Savoy monarchs. The 400-year-old stash includes works from Van Dyck, Rubens, Veronese and Rembrandt and is almost as impressive as all the Greek and Roman archaeological treasures held in the Museo di Antichità and the dazzling frescoed armoury hall – the palace’s Kodak moment. A stroll through the gardens designed in 1697 by André Le Nôtre (the man behind the gardens at Versailles) north and east of the palace is also non-negotiable. 

Address: Palazzo Reale, Piazzetta Reale, 1, 10122 Torino TO, Italy
Website: museireali.beniculturali.it

Mole Antonelliana (Museo Nazionale del Cinema)

Over the years, Mole Antonelliana has become the undisputed symbol of Turin and even features on the Italian two-cent coin. When construction began in 1862 it was intended to pop up as a synagogue but, despite its religious intentions, was never once used as a place of worship. Now the 167m tower is home to the Museo Nazionale del Cinema, one fine museum exploring Turin’s longstanding relationship with the movies over the years. For 360 views, take the elevator to the viewing deck but be warned, lines and wait times can be very long, especially at weekends, so get there as early as possible.

Address: Mole Antonelliana, Via Montebello, 20, 10124 Torino TO, Italy
Website: museocinema.it 

Parco del Valentino 

It’s all about the long walks in this glorious stretch of park straddling the banks of the mighty river, Po. Massive villas, grand residences, and the Castello del Valentino (another royal Savoy palace) are just some of the highlights here to explore, along with the Botanical Gardens, the Torino Esposizioni and Underground Pavilion Complex and the Borgo Medievale, an open-air museum mimicking the late-medieval architecture of the Piedmont region. As with any grand park in Italy, there’s also a rather opulent fountain in the form of the very striking Fontana dei 12 mesi (Fountain of the Months) which comes to life day and night with a dazzling waterworks show that spins off each of its allegorical marble statues. 

Address: Parco del Valentino, Corso Massimo d'Azeglio, 10126 Torino TO, Italy
Website: comune.torino.it 

Basilica di Superga

There’s a romantic ending to this basilica in the sky. Built in 1706 under the direct order of Vittorio Amedeo II the shrine was built to honour the Virgin Mary when Turin was saved from besieging French and Spanish armies. Built on top of a surrounding hill, it’s the final resting place of the Savoy family (Italy’s former royals) whose overtly lavish tombs make for excellent sightseeing. The view from up here is also simply astounding, as is the dome.

Address: Strada Basilica di Superga, 73, 10132 Torino TO, Italy
Website: basilicadisuperga.com

Reggia di Venaria Reale

Travel a little further out of the city and day trip to Reggia di Venaria Reale, the Unesco-listed Baroque palace of The Savoys and Italy’s extremely grand answer to its very own Château de Versailles. Rescued from ruin by a €235 million 10-year-long restoration project, it’s one of the largest royal residences in the world originally designed as a glorified hunting lodge in 1675 by Carlo Emanuele II. The permanent exhibition runs a colossal 2km in length, chronicling the 1000-year history of the House of Savoy alongside numerous temporary pop-ups and regular live concerts. Expect 1600 square metres of exquisite wall and ceiling frescoes, gorgeous ornamental gardens, walloping columns, glistening marble floors and rooms laced with silverware and paintings from the likes of Rubens and Van Dyck. The major highlight? The Grand Gallery.

Address: La Venaria Reale, Piazza della Repubblica, 4, 10078 Venaria Reale TO, Italy
Website: lavenaria.it 

The best restaurants and bar in Turin

Farmacia del Cambio

Well before Stanley Tucci made the place famous in his show Searching for Italy, this place is and always has been a Turin institution. There are never-ending lines throughout the day. Farmacia del Cambio began life as, you guessed it, a pharmacy that housed all sorts of potions and apothecaries hidden away in ancient ceramics. Many of the original features – chandeliers, furniture and more – survive to this day in a bistro, ice cream parlour, pastry shop and bar wow on loop. Must-try sweet-tooth treats include the tre ciccolati, an exceedingly rich orb of chocolate mouse and the crubix, smooth custard encased inside some seriously stodgy pastry. The bicerin – a Turin native drink made of espresso, hot chocolate, and milk – is a must-try, too. 

Address: Farmacia Del Cambio, Piazza Carignano, 2, 10123 Torino TO, Italy
Website: delcambio.it 

Magazzino 52

Warehouse 52, a stellar local haunt brought to life by friends Diego, Graziano and Dario is all about their united love affair with snacks and booze. The food is Med-inspired at heart, but the boys don’t forget their roots, with a particular emphasis on Piedmontese traditions. Think tagliolini with rabbit livers and Piedmontese pork bacon with soy sauce. More than 1,000 bottles of wine stock the walls from the local Piedmont hills to Tuscany, Burgundy and Rhone. Drink at the table, or simply ask to take one home. 

Address: Magazzino 52, Via Giovanni Giolitti, 52/A, 10123 Torino TO, Italy
Website: magazzino52.it 

Luogo Divino

You come, you eat, you drink, you leave – that’s the in-your-face philosophy at Luogo Divino. Small plates rule Remo Girardi’s menu with pantry greens, veggies, cheeses, catch of the days and shellfish making up much of the seasonal nosh on offer. The risotto is a must (it’s prepared differently according to the season) as is the taleggio fondue with cabbage and croutons. Wines are served by the glass and it’s best to let the team choose for you.

Address: Luogo Divino, Via S. Massimo, 13, 10123 Torino TO, Italy
Website: luogodivino.com 

Azotea

Turin’s chicest ode to Asia-Peruvian fusion is Azotea, a cocktail bar that's quite literally the definition of Instagram: sexy low-lit walls, a dash of floral art and ivy-festooned holes in the walls. The concept is very much in tune with the boundless stakes of the nikkei world and brings together the many flavours and aromas of Peruvian cuisine and Japanese culinary expressionism. It all sounds very intense, but it works and in a refreshingly non-snooty kind of way. Go for chef Alexander Robles tasting menu (it changes all the time) with a drinks pairing – the tropical Negroni is the standout tipple.

Address: Azotea, Via Maria Vittoria, 49/B, 10123 Torino TO, Italy
Website: azoteatorino.com 

Razzo

Quiet and super relaxed, Razzo is all about shining a light on young talent in a contemporary shiny space. Chef Niccolo Giugni uses a few suppliers in the hope that his dishes will inspire you to learn more about where your food is coming from. The bulk of the tasting menu uses ingredients simply, while the wine list draws on a curated selection of producers that puts unknown Italian and worldwide vineyards on the map. There’s also a little shop where you can take truffles, foie gras and more home, too. 

Address: Razzo, Via Andrea Doria, 17/F, 10123 Torino TO, Italy
Website: vadoarazzo.it 

Ristorante Circolo dei Lettori

The grand dame of Turin’s restaurant scene delivers its ethos of introducing new punters to the delights of traditional Piedmontese cuisine. Chef Stefano Fanti adds a hint of modernity in his facelift of seasonal ingredients. The menu is long, so we suggest you go for the Piedmont tasting menu to relish in all the region's delights. Expect fassone raw veal tartare with hazelnut mayo; gnocchi with a ragout of rabbit and amaretto; and pink calf with Monferrina tuna sauce, plus Piedmont pickles. The arty rooms decorated by Felice Vellan are also picture-pretty.

Address: Ristorante Circolo dei Lettori, Via Giambattista Bogino, 9, 10123 Torino TO, Italy
Website: instagram.com

Pasticceria Venier

You go here for one thing and one thing only – pudding. Our main tip is to get here as early you can to snap up the Chantilly and an Umbertini before they sell out.

Address: Pasticceria Venier, Via Monte di Pietà, 22, 10122 Torino TO, Italy

The best shops in Turin

Verdelilla Torino

Hidden away on the Via Assietta you’ll stumble upon Verdelilla. Fashion is owner Silvia Reinhold's main game but among the stylish racks there’s a load of stylish shoes, jewels and sparkling dangling accessories too.  

Address: Verdelilla Torino, Via Assietta, 17, 10128 Torino TO, Italy
Website: verdelilla.it 

Confetteria Stratta

Opened in 1836, this chocolate shop remains one of Turin’s most legendary to this day. Artisanal gianduiotto – Piedmont’s most famous slab of cocoa first made during Napoleon’s regency – is the must-buy speciality filled with bite-sized hazelnuts. 

Address: Stratta, P.za S. Carlo, 191, 10123 Torino TO, Italy
Website: stratta1836.it 

Galleria Subalpina

The work of architect Pietro Carrera, Galleria Subalpina is the one-stop shopping arcade for all those who love a dash of art, fine wines and vintage prints. The star of the show is Galleria Gilibert, a deluxe bookstore specialising in rare literary totems, old-school posters, globes and maps. It’s also home to Caffè Baratti, one of Turin’s most famous cafés.

Address: Galleria Subalpina, Galleria Subalpina, 16, 10123 Torino TO, Italy

Kristina Ti Store Torino

Go here for niche, up-market and limited edition goods courtesy of Turin native Cristina Tardito. The store is all about ready-to-wear fine fabrics that glamourise ultra-feminine pieces designed to make a statement. 

Address: Kristina Ti Store Torino, Via Maria Vittoria, 18, 10123 Torino TO, Italy
Website: kristinati.com 

Bagni Paloma

This concept store masterminded by Alessandra Rolle is hidden away in a converted garage in Via dei Mille. Everything you see on the walls and the floor is for sale. There’s also a cosy lounge where you can meet locals and sip hipster cups of coffee, too. 

Address: Bagni Paloma, P.za Cavour, 2, 10123 Torino TO, Italy
Website: bagnipaloma.it 

The bookstalls on the Via Po

Sometimes it feels like there are more bookstores and libraries in Turin than there are actual people. Bookworms should shimmy down the Via Po (one of the city’s oldest streets) and check out the book stalls. Treasures include vintage bound classics, novellas, mini-histories and hardbacks devoted to some of the most stunning world maps you’ll ever see.

Via Roma and Piazza San Carlo

All the big brands are on this street/piazza mash-up from Vuitton to Ferragamo, Armani and Hermès, but ditch the names for Galleria San Federico. The small mall is a master lesson in Art Nouveau (the Luxe cinema speaks for itself) and there are oodles of indies selling everything from pendants to bracelets and watches throughout its stunning marble concourse.