The Cats is a local treasure with a storied history. The circa 1896 roadhouse above Los Gatos has been a stage stop, a speakeasy, a bordello, a realty, a sporting goods store and, since 1967, a restaurant and tavern.
The latest restaurant chapter is now unfolding along Highway 17. The Cats’ new owner is ChefCentury, a culinary venture launched during the pandemic by South Bay entrepreneur Richard Tam, who wanted to provide a lifeline to struggling chefs by supplying them with a fully equipped commissary kitchen where they cooked meals for delivery.
The only thing missing was customer engagement, Tam said, and chefs thrive on that. He seized the opportunity to buy The Cats brand when the iconic restaurant came up for sale, undertook a massive renovation and hired an experienced team for the kitchen.
Adrian Pham, the chef-GM, combines in-depth barbecue knowledge from his home state, North Carolina, with a passion for Japanese cuisine. Chef Rafael Lim cut his culinary teeth in the Philippines and is also a fan of live-fire cooking. He has founded a company called Angry Cow Master Cuts that specializes in premium Wagyu beef (which you’ll find on the menu). And professional pitmaster David Hunt adds his meat-smoking expertise to the mix.
We were eager to check out the food and the scene. Here’s our report:
THE VIBE: Friendly and welcoming, with a clientele that ranges from longtime fans of The Cats who are curious to check out the changes to road-trippers who had been passing by the place for decades but never stopped in until now. To maintain a community- and family-friendly space, Tam says the bar now observes earlier closing times.
THE LOOK: The interior retains the Western feel, with the pressed-tin ceiling and the dark wood and brick interior punctuated by vintage cat signs and artwork that remind diners they’re in the city of cats. But the look has been streamlined and everything has been deep-cleaned. More seating is coming for the stage area, and the patio will be refurbished for outdoor diners. As Tam says, it’s a work in progress.
THE FOOD: The chefs are smoking both St. Louis ribs and the not-widely-offered beef ribs, along with brisket, pulled pork and chicken. They wisely showcase the meat sans sauce. Take a bite or two of the pork ribs (note that little spike of black pepper) and the brisket (beautiful bark and smoke ring), then decide if you want to add barbecue sauce. On the table are three house-made versions: the molasses-sweetened The Cats Original BBQ Sauce; the Spicy BBQ Sauce, infused with Asian spices; and the mustardy, pork-friendly Gold BBQ Sauce.
Barbecue platters ($23-$30) come with two sides (select from Garlic Herb Fries, Pineapple Coleslaw and Onion Rings with house-made ranch), and sandwiches ($19-$21) with one side. House-pickled veggies accompany all.
Rounding out the menu are a Ribeye Steak with chimichurri butter ($30), Lemon Pepper Salmon ($30), Caesar and Farm Fresh Salads ($12 each) and bar bites and appetizers that include Brisket Chili ($8), Chili Cheese Fries ($10), Roasted Root Vegetables ($10) and Chicken Wings with mango-habanero or barbecue sauce ($12). A few comforting desserts like Banana Walnut Pie and Peach Biscoff Crumble ($10 each) are offered.
Smoked Wagyu brisket is offered on the daily menu, and will be featured in Father’s Day specials.
THE SIPS: Naturally, The Cats bar is still front and center. You’ll find 12 beers on tap and an eclectic array of new craft cocktails, including a smoky-sweet Mexican Mezcal Pineapple ($15 or $10 for a mocktail version) and a gin, triple sec and blue curacao concoction called Summertime Blues ($15).
DON’T MISS: When the kitchen has to bake extra batches of the Cornbread studded with corn kernels ($6) to keep up with the customer demand, you know you’d better get an order. The top is glazed with brown sugar, honey and butter, which in our book makes it a dessert prospect too.
GOOD TO KNOW: The live music’s back too. Prime seats are the cabaret-style tables near the stage and the nearby booths and bar seats. Check the website for the schedule.
DETAILS: Open four nights a week, from 4 to 10 p.m. Thursday, 4 p.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday and 4 to 10 p.m. Sunday at 17533 Santa Cruz Highway, Los Gatos. Reservations are now accepted. www.thecatslosgatos.com
