The majestic temples of Angkor in northwest Cambodia are a Unesco World Heritage site and top of the historic hit list for many travelers to Southeast Asia.
The ultimate statement of Khmer architectural ingenuity, the one and only Angkor Wat is the largest religious building in the world and the perfect blend of symbolism and symmetry. Almost every inch of this immense complex is covered with intricate carvings and motifs, so it pays to do a little homework on this most iconic of temples and start planning your bucket list adventure to the temples of Angkor.
What is Angkor Wat?
Angkor Wat – built by Suryavarman II (r 1113–50) – is the earthly representation of Mount Meru, the Mount Olympus of the Hindu faith, and the abode of ancient gods. The Cambodian god-kings of old each strove to better their ancestors’ structures in size, scale, and symmetry, culminating in what is believed to be the world’s largest religious building.
The temple is the heart and soul of Cambodia and a source of fierce national pride. Unlike the other Angkor monuments, it was never abandoned to the elements and has been in virtually continuous use since it was built.
Special features of Angkor Wat
Western orientation
Symbolically, west is the direction of death, which once led a large number of scholars to conclude that Angkor Wat must have existed primarily as a tomb. This idea was supported by the fact that the magnificent bas-reliefs of the temple were designed to be viewed in an anticlockwise direction, a practice that has precedents in ancient Hindu funerary rites. Vishnu, however, is also frequently associated with the west, and it is now commonly accepted that Angkor Wat most likely served both as a temple and as a mausoleum for Suryavarman II.
While Suryavarman II may have planned Angkor Wat as his funerary temple or mausoleum, he was never buried there as he died in battle during a failed expedition to subdue the Dai Viet (Vietnamese).
Celestial nymphs
Angkor Wat is famous for having more than 3000 beguiling apsaras (heavenly nymphs) carved into its walls. Each of them is unique, and there are 37 different hairstyles for budding stylists to check out. Many of these exquisite apsaras were damaged during efforts to clean the temples with chemicals during the 1980s, but they are being restored by the teams with the German Apsara Conservation Project. Bat urine and droppings also degrade the restored carvings over time.
The bas-reliefs
Visitors to Angkor Wat are struck by its imposing grandeur and, at close quarters, its fascinating decorative flourishes. Stretching around the outside of the central temple complex is an 800m-long (2624ft) series of intricate and astonishing bas-reliefs – carvings depicting historical events and stories from mythology.
What does it mean?
Eleanor Mannikka explains in her book Angkor Wat: Time, Space and Kingship that the spatial dimensions of Angkor Wat parallel the lengths of the four ages (Yuga) of classical Hindu thought. Thus the visitor to Angkor Wat who walks the causeway to the main entrance and through the courtyards to the final main tower, which once contained a statue of Vishnu, is metaphorically traveling back to the first age of the creation of the universe.
Like the other temple-mountains of Angkor, Angkor Wat also replicates the spatial universe in miniature. The central tower is Mount Meru, with its surrounding smaller peaks, bounded in turn by continents (the lower courtyards) and the oceans (the moat). The seven-headed naga (mythical serpent) becomes a symbolic rainbow bridge for humankind to reach the abode of the gods.
How was Angkor Wat built?
The sandstone blocks from which Angkor Wat was built were quarried from the holy mountain of Phnom Kulen, more than 50km (31mi) away, and floated down the Siem Reap River on rafts. The logistics of such an operation are mind-blowing, consuming the labor of thousands. According to inscriptions, the construction of Angkor Wat involved 300,000 workers and 6000 elephants. It was not fully completed.
Getting orientated at Angkor Wat
Moat
Angkor Wat is surrounded by a 190m-wide moat, which forms a giant rectangle measuring 1.5km by 1.3km. From the west, a sandstone causeway crosses the moat.
Outer wall
The rectangular outer wall, which measures 1025m by 800m (3363ft by 2625ft), has a gate on each side, but the main entrance, a 235m-wide (82ft) porch richly decorated with carvings and sculptures, is on the western side. There is a statue of Vishnu, 3.25m (1066ft) in height and hewn from a single block of sandstone, located in the right-hand tower. Vishnu’s eight arms hold a mace, a spear, a disc, a conch and other items. You may also see locks of hair lying about. These are offerings both from young people preparing to get married and from pilgrims giving thanks for their good fortune.
Avenue
The avenue is 475m long (1558ft) and 9.5m wide (31ft) and lined with naga balustrades, leading from the main entrance to the central temple, passing between two graceful libraries and then two pools, the northern one a popular spot from which to watch the sunrise.
Central complex
The central temple complex consists of three stories, each made of laterite, which enclose a square surrounded by intricately interlinked galleries. The Gallery of a Thousand Buddhas (Preah Poan) used to house hundreds of Buddha images before the war, but many of these were removed or stolen, leaving just the handful we see today.
Towers
The corners of the second and third stories are marked by towers, each topped with symbolic lotus-bud towers. Rising 31m (102ft) above the third level and 55m (180ft) above the ground is the central tower, which gives the whole grand ensemble its sublime unity.
Upper level
The stairs to the upper level are immensely steep because reaching the kingdom of the gods was no easy task. Also known as Bakan Sanctuary, the upper level of Angkor Wat is open to a limited number per day with a queuing system.
Temple etiquette
As the temples of Angkor represent a sacred religious site to the Khmer people, visitors are asked to dress modestly. It is not possible to visit the highest level of Angkor Wat without upper arms covered and shorts to the knees. Local authorities have visitor “code of conduct” guidelines and a video to encourage appropriate dress, as well as reminding tourists not to touch, sit or climb on the ancient structures, to pay attention to restricted areas, and to be respectful of monks.
Planning your trip to Angkor Wat
- Best time to go: it is possible to visit Angkor Wat at any time of year, but peak season is from November to February, when the weather is dry and cooler, although it’s still hot for most. The best time of day is sunrise when it’s cooler but crowded, or lunchtime when most of the tour groups are in town. It is also popular at sunset when the temple can develop a soft glow in the warm light of the late sun.
- How long you’ll need: plan at least three hours to explore the whole complex, but more like half a day if you want to explore every nook and cranny.
- Opening hours: Angkor Wat opens at 5am for visitors who want to see the sunrise from this iconic spot. The upper level (Bakan Sanctuary) is only open from 7.30am. Angkor Wat closes at 6pm and is not currently open at night.
- Costs: an entry pass to the temples of Angkor costs US$37 for one day, US$62 for three days (which can be used over a period of 10 days), and US$72 for one week (which can be used over one month). However, for the remainder of 2022, tickets are on special offer. A one-day pass is valid for two days, a three-day pass is valid for five days, and a seven-day pass is valid for 10 days.
- Where to stay: Siem Reap is just 7km (4.3mi) from Angkor Wat and is the base for exploring the temples.
- Getting around: choose from motos (motorbike taxis) for one person, remork-motos (tuk-tuks) for two, and private cars or minivans for families or small groups. Ecofriendly options include mountain bikes or electric bicycles. Guided tours can also be arranged in Siem Reap. Ecofriendly options include mountain bikes or electric bicycles and there is a new cycling path that connects the town of Siem Reap with the many temples of Angkor. Guided tours can also be arranged through hotels and tour operators in Siem Reap.
Angkor Wat during COVID-19
Angkor Wat remained open throughout most of the COVID-19 pandemic, only closing for a few weeks during Cambodia’s very brief lockdowns. Visitor numbers plummeted by 99% between Q1 2020 and Q1 2021 as international visitors stayed away due to strict quarantine policies on arrival.
Cambodia fully reopened to international tourism on 15 November 2021, only requiring one PCR test within 72 hours of arrival and one Rapid Antigent test on arrival. There are no other restrictions in place in Cambodia at this time and visitors are free to travel anywhere in the country. There is no curfew and all entertainment outlets are open in Siem Reap including bars, nightclubs and cinemas.
There may be no better time to visit Angkor Wat than in 2022 before mass tourism returns to Cambodia. Right now it remains eerily empty and it is quite possible to have the temple to yourself during the week. Apsara Authority, the body which manages the temples of Angkor, oversaw a lot of work on beautification of the landscape and public areas around Angkor Wat, including a new welcome parvis with restaurants and a handicraft market, as well as the development of a cycling track to connect all the temples.
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