When we were testing today’s dishes a couple of months ago, I hadn’t the foggiest idea what commotions summer had in store. Unprecedented political storms and plenty of more predictable meteorological storms have made the prospects of jolly garden parties and frivolous picnics slightly less realistic than I had hoped, which isn’t ideal. For me, at least, it’s hard to muster the good cheer you need for a day outside when the skies are grey.
Fortunately, though, these dishes have an inbuilt versatility: sure, they’re all highly portable and designed to be consumed outdoors, but they all work perfectly well served warm indoors, too. So, whether you’re having a bright day or a gloomy moment, you can make any of them fit your mood.
Sesame prawn toasts
If you’d rather not make your own sweet chilli sauce, which I highly recommend, just use a decent brand instead. If, however, you do choose to make your own, you’ll have more than you need for these toasts. Put the excess in a sealed container and keep it in the fridge, where it will last a good few weeks: it’s a great dip for fried seafood, chicken or tofu. Pre-sliced supermarket white bread works best here, which is not something you’ll catch me saying all that often. Serves four as a snack or starter (makes 20 toasts).
350g shelled raw prawns
4 spring onions, finely chopped
20g coriander stalks, finely chopped
1½ tsp Szechuan pepper, finely ground
2 sticks lemongrass, outer layer removed, the rest finely blitzed in a spice grinder (leaving you 1 tbsp-worth)
3cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 egg, lightly whisked
1 tbsp sesame oil
1 tbsp fish sauce
1 tbsp light soy sauce
4 tbsp cornflour
1 tbsp white sesame seeds
2 tsp black sesame seeds (or use more white, if you can’t get black)
1 tsp aleppo chilli flakes (or ½ tsp regular chilli flakes)
5 slices medium-thick sliced white bread, crusts left on
140ml sunflower oil, for frying
For the sweet chilli and ginger sauce
200g caster sugar
180ml rice vinegar
60ml fish sauce
6 fresh kaffir lime leaves
4 red chillies, 2 deseeded, 2 left whole, all finely chopped
4cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 small garlic clove, peeled and crushed
1½ tsp lime juice
First make the sauce. Put the sugar, vinegar, fish sauce and lime leaves in a medium saucepan, bring to a boil and leave to bubble for five to six minutes, until it turns into a syrup. Take off the heat, add the chopped chilli, ginger and garlic, and leave to cool. Once cool, stir in the lime juice and refrigerate.
Put the prawns, spring onions, coriander, Szechuan pepper, lemongrass, ginger, egg, sesame oil, fish sauce, soy sauce and cornflour in the bowl of a food processor and blitz for a minute, until thick and gluey.
Combine all the sesame seeds and the chilli flakes in a small bowl and cut each slice of bread into four squares. Spread about one and a half tablespoons (30g) of the prawn mix over one side of each square of bread – you want a layer as thick as the bread itself – then put the bread prawn side up on a plate. Once all the bread is spread with prawn paste, sprinkle generously with the sesame seed mix (about a quarter-teaspoon per bread square).
Heat three tablespoons of oil in a large frying pan on a medium-high flame. Lay in five prawn toasts prawn side down and fry for a minute, until the topping is cooked through and the seeds are golden-brown. Turn over and fry for 45-50 seconds, until the bread is golden-brown, then transfer to a plate lined with kitchen towel and keep warm. Add two more tablespoons of oil to the pan and, once hot, repeat with the next batch of toasts. Repeat with the remaining toasts and oil, then serve warm or at room temperature, with the sauce for dipping alongside.
Lamb arayes with tahini and sumac
These meat-stuffed pockets are popular snacks throughout the Levant. Thanks to Sami Tamimi for the recipe. Serves four to six.
10 plain or corn tortillas (20cm wide)
75ml olive oil, plus 2 tsp for brushing
1 tbsp sumac
For the filling
250g lamb mince
250g beef mince
½ small onion, peeled and coarsely grated
2 tomatoes, coarsely grated (skin discarded)
¾ tsp ground allspice
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
90g tahini paste
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
2 tsp pomegranate molasses
10g mint leaves, finely shredded
15g parsley leaves, finely chopped
60g mature cheddar, coarsely grated
Salt
In a large bowl, mix all the filling ingredients except the cheese, with a teaspoon of salt. Working with one tortilla at a time, spoon 100g of filling over one half of the tortilla, leaving a 0.5cm border around the edge. Lightly sprinkle cheese on top of the meat (about 6g per tortilla), then fold the tortilla into a semi-circle and press down gently, so the meat is evenly spread and about 1-1.5cm thick. Repeat with the remaining tortillas and filling.
Heat a tablespoon of oil in a large, nonstick frying pan on a low-medium flame. Lay in two folded tortillas at a time, and fry gently for two to three minutes. Turn over, cook for two to three minutes, until the tortilla is golden-brown on both sides and the meat is cooked through, then transfer to a plate lined with kitchen towel. Wipe clean the pan with kitchen towel and repeat with the other tortillas and oil.
Mix the remaining two teaspoons of oil with the sumac, and brush all over the tops of the cooked arayes. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Marinated beetroot with egg and smoked mackerel
The eggs are more or less soft-boiled here, so things could get a bit messy if you’re planning to eat them outdoors; if you’d rather minimise the potential mess, by all means cook them for two to three minutes longer. And if you’re taking this on a picnic, keep the eggs separate from the salad until just before serving, otherwise the eggs will be stained by the beetroot. Don’t feel you have to use smoked mackerel, either: smoked salmon fillets work really well, as does smoked eel, which is what I’d use for preference, though it is more expensive. If you go down that route, however, make sure your eel comes from a producer such as the Severn & Wye Smokery, which is part of the Sustainable Eel Group and guarantees its eel is sourced responsibly. Serves six.
12 small beetroots, scrubbed clean but unpeeled, leaves and stalks discarded
60ml olive oil, plus extra to serve
1½ tbsp cider vinegar
1 tsp maple syrup
½ tsp cumin seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
2 tsp coriander seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
¼ tsp chilli flakes
Flaky sea salt and black pepper
6 large eggs
2 tsp lemon juice
100g watercress
5g tarragon leaves
4 smoked mackerel fillets, skinned and broken into 2-3cm flakes
Heat the oven to 200C/390F/gas mark 6. Mix the beetroot in a bowl with a tablespoon of oil and a teaspoon of salt. Transfer to a medium oven tray lined with baking paper and roast for a hour, until soft. Set aside to cool for 15 minutes, then peel (kitchen gloves or washing-up gloves will prevent your hands turning purple). Cut the beetroots into 1.5cm-thick wedges, then put in a bowl with two tablespoons of oil, the vinegar, maple syrup, cumin, coriander, chilli and half a teaspoon of salt, and leave to marinate for 30 minutes.
Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil, lower in the eggs and boil for five minutes. Drain, refresh and, when they’re just cool enough to handle, peel. Leave to cool if serving later, or keep warm if serving at once.
In a big bowl, whisk the remaining tablespoon of oil, the lemon juice, a quarter-teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper. Add the watercress and tarragon, and toss. Add the fish and beetroot, toss gently, then transfer to individual bowls (or to a container, if you’re taking the salad on a picnic).
To serve, break or cut each egg in half over each portion, so the yolk drips over it, place on top, then drizzle over extra oil, if you like.
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