Enough is Enough: Alma Chef-Owner Ari Taymor Pleads With Chefs to Stop the Negativity

by Matt Duckor
on 04/14/14 at 11:36 AM

Two weeks ago, The New York Times Magazine published a much-talked-about profile of Flynn McGarry, a 15 year-old aspiring chef. Numerous chefs, from Amanda Cohen to Andrew Carmellini, had something to say about it. Over the past six months, McGarry has worked (not interned) on and off for chef Ari Taymor at his LA restaurant Alma.

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Taymor (left) and McGarry (right) at Alma in Los Angeles. Credit: Matt Duckor

Here are Taymor's thoughts on the response to the Times story, working with McGarry, and negativity in the chef community.

First, let me get this out of the way--I have the best damn job in the world, at the best time there has ever been to have it.

I come to work every day and am surrounded by a young, driven, and passionate team that constantly gives me faith in humanity no matter how hard I push them. In Los Angeles, I get to count dozens of freakishly talented chefs with an unbelievably diverse array of talents and styles as peers. They make me want to be better and their successes make me want to live up to the standards they set. I seek their advice when I struggle--they offer it freely and I do the same. Nothing makes a 20 hour day more satisfying than respect from these people.

Lately though, something has started bubbling up. Shit talking, hating, and jealousy. Whatever phrase you want to use, it's something that is as old as the restaurant industry itself and isn't unique to it. Cooks go out to eat at a rival restaurant, feel it doesn't live up to a perceived level of "hype," come back to their kitchens and immediately start listing the slights. I've been guilty of it, we all have. No one's clean, we are all covered in it. It's kitchen banter, it's part of the game.

But back to that bubbling up part. Like the old West Coast-East Coast rap grudges of the 1990s, private has made it's way into the public arena and the results are ugly.

A few weeks ago, the New York Times Magazine ran a cover story on Flynn Mcgarry, a 15 year-old kid who has spent time in my kitchen (as well as many others that are far better and more prestigious). He is ambitious, hardworking and outspoken--everything that we hope the next generation would be.

Let me be clear here though--this kid can cook better than most 10-year veterans. He is able to work every station in our kitchen with no kid gloves necessary. His attitude is "yes chef" with as strong a push as I've seen in our restaurant's short history. Instead of celebrating his success, or, at worst, giving a little eye roll and getting back to business as usual, several extremely successful chefs have used Flynn as a scapegoat to air their grievances against state of cooking, food media, and a host of other issues that have nothing to do with Flynn. The one common denominator in all of the reactions? Negativity. Instead of pushing us forward and leading by example, we are all dragged down and into a conversation (a series of monologues, really) that does neither.

This has to stop now. We all work hard as cooks and chefs. We all want to put out the best product possible, show a respect for the craft, and care for the labors of our incredible farmers and purveyors. Our diversity is our strength--I make "precious tweezer food;" Kris Yenbamroong cooks insanely spicy, funky vibrant Thai food; Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook put together bold, creative and aggressively-seasoned dishes. When I eat their food I learn something. Every time. So what if its not like mine? So what if its not what I want to eat every single day? The fact that there are others doing what they want to do and doing it so well makes my restaurant better, our diners more educated, and our cooks better trained.

Chefs: Enough is enough. Respect everyone's differences, lead by example, and please think twice before you bring your negativity and jealousy into the media. It makes us all look petty and childish. -- AT

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ChubbyAlaskaGriz
05:42:05 AM on
04/16/14

I loved this piece- an outstanding read! A former chef- I can identify w/ and appreciate it all. Also- a trio of recently viewed posts at FB come to mind as I read this. And they are:

1.) "Live in such a way that if someone spoke badly about you no one would believe it."

2.) "I'm not interested in competing with anyone. I hope we all make it!" -Erica Cook

3.) "Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. Some people always try that but the really great always try to make you feel as if you can be great too!" -Mark Twain

3.)
2.)

DHess1974
12:51:58 AM on
04/16/14

Absolutely correct! Instead of trying to tear this young man down, we all should support his desire to become a chef. It is commendable that a young person his age has so much drive and passion for the industry...

earthanyc
01:41:35 PM on
04/14/14

Amen to this!

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