Not even going to front: I’m over braising cabbage. It takes too long, requires a battalion of scented candles to counteract the stank, and it's straight up boring.
I want to burn cabbage. Last fall, I saw a chef demonstration where Gramercy Tavern chef Joe Geinert did just that. He did it thoughtfully, though. He gave the cabbage some nice color—a lot of color, actually—and sweetened it with honey. The result? A fully cooked cabbage with a crunch that brought back memories of summer slaw.
I was sold. I wanted to recreate it. Luckily, Epi had just the right recipe.
You need two things for blackened cabbage: a very hot cast-iron or carbon steel pan, and a neutral oil. Don’t use butter or olive oil to sear—these have low smoking points and will definitely break down and burn.
For my first attempt, I chose red cabbage. I seared for 10 minutes on high heat, threw open my windows to let out the wisps of smoke, and basted the cabbage with butter to tenderize it, just like you would with a carrot steak. The result was dark purple and wispy on the edges, with a crunchy exterior and an interior that was almost butter-smooth.
But I wanted a meatier flavor, a slightly softer texture (turns out cabbage can be too crispy), and a way to turn the smokiness into an asset. So for my next attempt, I put a lid on it.
Here's how to do it: set a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat and quarter the cabbage (remove the core—that's not getting tender any time soon). Add the cabbage cut side down, covered, for 10 minutes. Crank the kitchen fan and use that vent hood. Call your mom. Read a heartwarming essay. But don’t touch the cabbage. After 10 minutes, remove the lid, reduce the heat to medium-low and add 4 tablespoons of butter. As the butter melts, tilt the pan (please be sure to hold the handle with a towel) and start spooning the melted butter over the cabbage rapidly (this is called "basting"). Baste for about 20-30 seconds, then cover the cabbage and let it cook for another 3 minutes. Repeat this basting and covering rigmarole twice, then remove the cover. Place pan in a oven heated to 400°F and roast for 6 minutes.
The edges of your cabbage are going to be crisp, the center is going to be moist and buttery, the char will be on point with a smoky flavor to boot. So eat. Now dance. Repeat.
