The colonialist traders that put Penang on the map in the 1700s did more than just build their mansions here. The rampantly capitalist society of the time attracted pioneering families from around Asia to make their legacies in Penang, and a rent control act imposed by the British preserved the ornate, colonial bungalows and shophouses where these generations flourished. Bolstered by the 2008 UNESCO declaration of the inner city of George Town as a world heritage site, with "a unique architectural and cultural townscape without parallel anywhere in East and Southeast Asia," entrepreneurs have recently rushed in to painstakingly restore and preserve the untouched inner city, opening boutique hotels, cafes, and independent businesses within Penang's beautiful bones.
SEE
Begin with a visit to the opulent rooms of the Pinang Peranakan Mansion, a preserved residence which aptly illustrates the lifestyle of those who so heavily influenced the cuisine and culture of Penang—the Straits Chinese (also called Peranakan, or Baba Nyonya). The Peranakan culture is a fusion of traditions and tastes from China, Malaysia, and colonial Britain, all evident in the intimate spaces here, such as the personal wardrobe of elaborate kebaya dresses (colorful, paired combinations of a blouse and printed sarong skirt) and the hallways lined with antique radios and cabinets of eclectic family heirlooms. Do not skip a visit to the original kitchen, either; it's now home to a secret cafe serving cooling cendol (an icy dessert of jelly noodles, sweet red bean, and coconut milk).
Travelers often describe Singapore as a juxtaposition of the old and the new and the same is true of Penang, with one big exception; Penang has what sterile Singapore does not: a gritty, ramshackle appeal that forms the perfect canvas for a massive amount of modern street art. It may take the form of wrought iron sculptures illustrating pivotal scenes from Penang's past or be a simple paste-up image of a kitten. The scene is recent; in 2012, for the George Town Festival, Penang-based, Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic painted scenes on the crumbling walls around the center of George Town. The works focus on the youngest and oldest members of Penang's community, Zacharevic's neighbors, and depict domestic moments of joy, playfulness, and determination.
The great favorite of the street art around Penang, "Little Children on a Bicycle" on Armenian Street, is a scale mural by Penangite artist Hasifi Sani that incorporates an actual bicycle into the wall; the well-lit street means it's a 24-hour selfie spot. Another, "Children in a Boat," on the side of a stilt house on Chew Jetty, has been painted over, the victim of its own popularity (residents of the neighborhood feared the influx of visitors would compromise the jetty). The others, official and unofficial in constantly changing numbers, still delight on more solid ground.
EAT
Visiting Penang means a trip to the food capital of Malaysia, a chance to taste some of the Malay Peninsula's most popular dishes, such as laksa and nasi lemak, in their most authentic or specialized versions.
Along Kimberley Road, street chefs roll out their carts, set up dinged metal folding tables with plastic stools, and welcome passers-by to sit for a bit and enjoy cooked-to-order bowls of steaming hokkien mee (noodles stir-fried with egg, pork, prawn, and spicy sambal sauce). Other vendors skewer a variety of meats for sides of satay, all to be washed down with a cool, tall glass of kopi beng (iced white coffee) from a kopitiam (coffee shop) stall.
Just to the side of Fort Cornwallis is the Padang Kota Lama food court, with its stands serving char kway teow (flat rice noodles stir-fried with soy sauce, chili, prawns, cockles, and other optional yummies) and neatly wrapped pockets of nasi lemak (coconut rice wrapped in pandan leaf, best with a scoop of ikan bilis, or dried anchovies in sambal sauce). While these dishes are ubiquitous around Penang, Padang Kota Lama sets itself apart with vendors specializing in mee sotong, a variation on the fried noodle dish mee goreng (noodles fried with garlic, onion, prawn, and vegetables), but heaped with spicy squid and best enjoyed with a coconut shake.
While wandering near the jetties, Chew Jetty in particular, keep your eyes open for Lok Lok carts. The height of informal dining, these mobile snack stations see patrons huddled around pots of boiling oil, dipping in skewered meats and slathering them in sauces for a quick and cheap bite. Each skewer is color-coded for price, and none go over the $0.20 mark.
Of course all of this is nothing compared to the state's most famous dish, Penang Asam Laksa, a spicy-sour tamarind fish soup filled with rice noodles, a dollop of prawn paste, garlic, ginger, and chili paste. For this, head to the conveniently named Penang Road and the "Penang Road Famous Laksa" vendor, parked next to another offering rojak (cut fruit topped with a thick, syrupy sweet shrimp paste sauce and chopped peanuts).
STAY
Restored Peranakan mansions are a popular hotel choice in Penang, with the restrictions on construction in the center city and the temptations of distinctive architecture inspiring hoteliers into utilizing the spaces. Think open-air courtyard laid with colorful tiles, framed with tendrils of tropical plants descending from wooden shutters and balconies above, all hidden behind pastel facades and the "five foot way" pedestrian passages indented into the ground floor, street side of these buildings. East Indies Mansion is one such property, with 7 rooms (from $55 per night, including a hot breakfast and Wi-Fi) and a location at the center of historic George Town. Domestic treasures of the city’s past, such as hand-hewn kitchen utensils, school desks, and ceramics decorate the two open-air courtyards. Although most rooms are ideal for two people, we love the duplex family suite, with two queen bed guestrooms connected by spiral staircase, access to a shared study, and a bathroom paved with Penang’s trademark bold tilework.
Located near the boutique district around Love Lane, The Blue Mansion is a landmark property of the Nyonya courtyard mansion style. Previously the Cheong Fatt Tze Museum, this “heirloom with rooms” was built in the late 1800s for the prominent trader and politician, called the “Captain of the Captains of Industry,” and little much has changed since. No two of the 18 rooms (from $125 per night) are the same; some feature plunge pools, others have priceless, antique artworks by Malaysian artists, but all come furnished with one-of-a-kind, period furniture and complimentary Wi-Fi.
A row of seven, 19th-century Anglo-Chinese terrace houses are now home to 18 suites (from $140) designed by hoteliers Karl Steinberg and Christopher Ong, the duo behind the Galle Fort Hotel in Sri Lanka, which won UNESCO’s 2007 Award of Distinction for heritage conservation. At Seven Terraces, Ong (a native Penangite) displays his personal collections of kamcheng (Straits Chinese porcelain ware) and furniture inlaid with mother-of-pearl, alongside other antiques. Nonetheless, Seven Terraces is first and foremost a hotel; this is where guests come to live among the Penang interior design showcased, for an admission fee, down the street at the Pinang Peranakan Mansion Museum.
When it comes to traveling to Penang, the task couldn't be easier. Low-cost airlines and frequent departures make the short flight (from Kuala Lumpur, Langkawi, Singapore, Taipei, and a variety of other Southeast Asian cities) very affordable. Combine that with the prevalence of cheap but excellent street market food and world-class boutique hotels for under $100 per night, and Penang becomes an obvious choice to escape the high-rise glitz and steep price tags of cities like Hong Kong and Jakarta.
