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Nearly four-fifths of Oxford University students voted in favour of the compulsory wearing of mortarboards and the subfusc academic dress. Photograph: Andrew Matthews/PA
Nearly four-fifths of Oxford University students voted in favour of the compulsory wearing of mortarboards and the subfusc academic dress. Photograph: Andrew Matthews/PA

Oxford University students vote to keep 'archaic' subfusc academic dress

This article is more than 8 years old

Critics had argued that compulsory wearing of mortarboards, gowns and traditional outfits was elitist and off-putting

Exams are stressful, even without having to balance a mortarboard on your head.

Yet Oxford University students, in what may be a testament to their obviously formidable academic ability, have voted overwhelmingly to keep them to hand while doing finals.

They were given the choice after some argued that the outfit and its associated dress code, known as subfusc, was archaic, elitist and off-putting to people from state schools and poor backgrounds.

However, in a referendum held by Oxford University student union (OUSU), 75.8% (6,403 students) voted to keep it, while 2,040 (24.2%) voted against.

Separately, 78% (6,242 students) voted to keep the gown and mortarboard compulsory, and 22% (1,759) voted against.

Oxford is one of the few UK universities where full academic dress is still regularly worn. Mortarboards and gowns are compulsory for degree ceremonies as well as exams and other ceremonies.

Subfusc, which comes from the Latin for “of a dark colour”, refers to the clothes worn with academic dress. University authorities define it as a dark suit with dark socks, dark skirt with black tights or stockings, or dark trousers with dark socks, a dark coat if required, black shoes, plain white-collared shirt or blouse, white bow tie, black bow tie, black full-length tie, or black ribbon.

In 2012, gender restrictions for subfusc were dropped so students are free to wear a black ribbon or bow tie, or suits or skirt as they wish. University officials can still punish anyone who flouts the code, however.

James Blythe, OUSU’s vice president for access and academic affairs, said he proposed the motion calling for subfusc to be scrapped after some examiners complained it was “uncomfortable, anachronistic and a general pain”.

Blythe, who stayed neutral throughout the campaign, said the student vote had been decisive. While some may see it as just a row over clothes, Blythe said the vote highlighted issues concerning students, including access and gender performance in exams.

Harrison Edmonds, 19, who is a first year history student at University College, led the campaign to keep subfusc.

He said: “I’m absolutely delighted. I think it sends a positive message from the students in Oxford that subfusc isn’t elitist but is egalitarian. No matter your background, race, class or gender, when you go into exams wearing the gown, you are equal.

“The message I get from people from under-privileged or poor backgrounds is that having the ability to wear their gown makes them feel the equal of Etonians or Harrovians, and that is something they don’t want taken away from them.”

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